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Matteo Borea, strategic consultant and innovator in the coffee sector, co-owner of the historic La Genovese coffee roasting company in Albenga, Italy, and author of the blog matteoborea.it, a reference point for evolved coffee entrepreneurs, shares with us his analysis on the coffee price paradox and the collapse of coffee futures. Below, we report his opinion.
The low-price trap
by Matteo Borea
MILAN – Borea: “While you’re celebrating the collapse of coffee futures, José in Colombia is deciding whether to abandon his plantation to grow avocados. Here’s why this isn’t good news for any of us.
Are you celebrating? The markets are jubilant. Cristina Scocchia, CEO of Illycaffè, just declared to Bloomberg that arabica prices will return to the 2-2.5 dollar range in the next 15 months (Bloomberg/Comunicaffè, June 17, 2025). Last Wednesday, futures crashed 3.1% in a single session, touching the lowest point since January 21st.
The reaction? Immediate celebration.
But there’s something profoundly wrong with this collective euphoria. While the most attentive coffee entrepreneurs are starting to ask uncomfortable questions, the majority of the market continues to see only numbers on a screen, disconnected from the human reality that generates them.
Here’s the truth no one wants to face: behind every dollar saved on futures lies a family of producers struggling to survive. And the system we’re celebrating is the same one that’s killing the industry from within.
Only 5 traders control 50% of global green coffee trade (Fairtrade Risk Map, 2024). This means a handful of multinationals determine the fate of millions of families who grow the product everything depends on. It’s like five people deciding the price of the air you breathe.
The hidden cost of our Myopia
Borea adds: “The numbers that follow aren’t statistics. They’re human lives reduced to profit margins.
Producers receive less than 3% of the final price of a cup at a café (Fairtrade Risk Map, 2024). You read that right: three percent. If you pay 3 euros for an espresso, less than 9 cents reach whoever grew that coffee. The remaining 97% dissolves along a chain of intermediaries, roasters, distributors, and cafés.
But it’s worse than that. 75% of the world’s coffee is produced by small farmers who have no negotiating power. They’re pure price-takers: they accept what they’re offered or they don’t sell. There’s no negotiation, no choice, no strategy that matters when you have a family to feed and crops rotting”.
The harsh reality of 2024
Borea: “The Natural Resources Institute published a devastating study this year: “No production system generates living income for average farm size in Costa Rica and Guatemala”.
Translated: even working 365 days a year, an average producer can’t earn enough for a dignified life.
And before you think “but with prices that rose to $3 per pound, it should be better now,” here’s the cold shower: “Producers’ margins remain tight due to climate change, rising costs of labor, fertilizers, and inflation”. Even when prices shoot upward, costs increase faster than revenues.
The FAO Report from December 2024 revealed chilling hidden costs: child labor costs up to $0.42 per kg of coffee. We’re talking about children picking cherries that will become your morning coffee instead of going to school.
The silent cry of producers
Bayardo Betanco, a Fairtrade producer in Nicaragua, put into words what millions of his colleagues experience daily: “There is a chain on earth that starts where the producers are. They are the ones who suffer the consequences of climate change, the ones who get the least help, and carry all of the burden. It’s not fair.”
It is not easy. It is not fair. And it is not sustainable. While we celebrate low prices, 50% of land currently cultivated for coffee will no longer be usable by 2050 due to climate change (Fairtrade Climate Report, 2022). We’re literally celebrating while the productive base of our business crumbles beneath our feet”.
The investment paradox
“Here’s the most striking contradiction of our time: while small producers fail to cover basic costs, billionaire investors like Ântonio Francisquini are acquiring mega Brazilian farms producing 7,000 tons annually. Already in 2007, musician Lenny Kravitz famously acquired a $3 million Brazilian farm and Mitsubishi Corp bought a 20% stake in Ipanema Coffees in 2012 (Coffee Intelligence, July 25, 2024).
The value is there. The potential is there. But it’s systematically extracted from those who create the original value to end up in the hands of those who control distribution. It’s a vampiric economic system that sucks blood from the base to feed the top”.
Innovation through Fair Trade and Systemic Vision
But not everything is lost. Around the world, evolved coffee entrepreneurs and visionary producers are rewriting the rules of the game through revolutionary business models.
The farmer-owned revolution
“Pachamama Coffee represents the purest innovation in the sector: a cooperative 100% owned by thousands of small producers in Latin America and Africa (Pachamama Coffee, 2025). It’s not charity. It’s not philanthropy. It’s pure business: all profits return directly to farmer-owners.
This model won the Specialty Coffee Association Sustainability Award for its business model. Why? Because it proves you can do business differently. That growth can be shared. That innovation doesn’t necessarily have to crush those at the base of the chain”.
Brazil: when producers become entrepreneurs
“Something extraordinary is happening in Brazil. The strong domestic market, with Brazilian families having high coffee consumption, is creating unique opportunities for local producers. The growth of specialty coffee in recent years has generated a billion-dollar retail market that Brazilian producers are learning to exploit.
The Sitio Santa Rita case is emblematic: a family manages farm, roastery, and coffee shop with three separate P&Ls. The roastery buys from the farm, the coffee shop buys from the roastery. Total transparency, complete control of the value chain, fair margins distributed among various stages.
This is an adaptation in real time. Instead of suffering the system, they’re reinventing it”.
Direct trade: eliminating intermediaries
“Green Coffee Company Colombia represents vertical integration taken to the extreme: 45 farms, 10,000 acres, total vertical control. No intermediaries, no speculation, no distortions. From seed to cup, everything under control.
Those Coffee People has pushed innovation even further: farm-to-cup in just 2 days from origin. When you eliminate all unnecessary steps, you don’t just improve quality and freshness, but redistribute value along the chain.
But the most interesting model is Torque Coffee’s “Proportional Pricing”: producers receive a fixed 20% of the final retail price, meaning $4.75 per pound instead of commodity prices. It’s simple, transparent, scalable”.
Fairtrade: the global safety net
870,000 coffee producers are part of the Fairtrade system, representing almost half of all Fairtrade farmers worldwide (Fairtrade, 2024). It’s not just certification: it’s a safety net that guarantees minimum prices, community investments, and technical support.
Climate Academy programs active in Kenya and Ethiopia are helping thousands of families build climate resilience through crop diversification, irrigation systems, and reforestation projects.
Technology as accelerator
CropConex represents the new frontier: the first end-to-end digital platform for transparent direct trade. Blockchain for traceability, instant direct payments, total elimination of intermediaries.
We’re witnessing the birth of a new technological ecosystem that has the potential to democratize market access for millions of small producers”.
The first step toward change
“For you, evolved coffee entrepreneur, this isn’t just an uplifting story to tell customers. It’s an unprecedented business opportunity”.
Assessment & awareness
“How much of your margin reaches the farmer? Do you know? Or are you one of those entrepreneurs who prefers not to look too closely?
Here’s the uncomfortable truth: most coffee entrepreneurs have no clue how much of their profit actually reaches the people who grew their product. They hide behind “complex supply chains” and “market forces” like they’re powerless.
You’re not powerless. You’re choosing ignorance.
Start here: Find out exactly how much of what you pay for green coffee reaches the farmer. Not the importer. Not the exporter. The farmer.
Don’t know how to find out? That’s your first problem to solve. Because the question isn’t what percentage they get today (too little). The question is: what percentage should they get tomorrow for this supply chain to be sustainable for everyone?
Pilot & test
“Develop a “transparency story” for at least one of your coffees. Not fluffy marketing, but real traceability: from farm to cup, every step, every cost, every margin. Evolved consumers are willing to pay for transparency, but only if it’s authentic.
Test the market with a “fair price” line: openly communicate real costs and fair pricing. You might discover there’s a customer segment willing to pay more for ethical consistency”.
Transform & scale
Borea adds: “Build direct partnerships following examples like Green Coffee Company. Eliminate intermediaries where possible. It’s not just about costs: it’s about quality control and story control.
Implement “proportional pricing” like Torque Coffee: a fixed percentage of retail price to the producer. It’s simple, scalable, easily communicable.
Become an advocate for fair pricing standards in your community. Follow examples like Heart Coffee Portland which already in 2018 paid “prices well above commodity market”, or Barocco Coffee which does direct trade with Brazilian and Colombian farms eliminating middleme”.
Long-term strategy
“Transform sustainability into your unique selling proposition. Not as a marketing add-on, but as a core business model. Pachamama Coffee won the Specialty Coffee Association Sustainability Award precisely for this.
Build premium positioning based on premium values. Premium price becomes acceptable, even desirable, when justified by premium ethics.
Create industry leadership: become a reference for ethical standards in your territory. It’s not altruism: it’s advanced business strategy”.
The hidden opportunity according to Matteo Borea
Borea: “Here’s what the majority of the market hasn’t understood yet: sustainability isn’t a cost, it’s a competitive advantage.
While everyone celebrates low prices and tight margins, those who have the courage to invest in fair relationships with producers are positioning themselves to dominate tomorrow’s market. Because tomorrow – and “tomorrow” might be much closer than you think – 50% of current land won’t be usable for coffee (Fairtrade Climate Report, 2022).
Those who have built solid and sustainable relationships will have privileged access to supplies. Those who have continued to speculate on prices will find themselves empty-handed.
Shared growth isn’t do-goodism: it’s strategic foresight. Innovation isn’t technology: it’s the courage to do things differently. Adaptation isn’t following the market: it’s anticipating it. And change isn’t a nice word: it’s a survival necessity.
The future of coffee isn’t built celebrating low prices, but investing in fair relationships. Every cup you serve tells a human story. It’s time to decide what story you want to tell.
Because in the end, it’s not about saving the world. It’s about saving your business. And in the world that’s coming, those two things are the same thing”.
Matteo Borea
